SUMMER SUIT FABRICS – ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW

During the colder months, wool, tweed and cashmere suits are the most preferred fabric types, as these materials not only look refined and professional, but also keep you snug and warm. In the summer months, however, I recommend swapping these suits out for lightweight, breathable fabrics that will keep you stay cool with zero compromise on appearance. Here’re the most preferred suit fabrics for summer.

Linen Suit:
A classic material for the hot and humid days, Linen, is a popular suit. It is lightweight ad breathable. It features an excellent natural texture and a visible weave as it comes from the fibres of the flax plant. With easy-wrinkle properties, it serves as an everyday work wear suit, the alternate being cotton or wool.

Cotton Suit:
Cotton suit is the default choice as a summer suit fabric as it allows you to have a structured, yet a casual look this summer. Cotton, though stiffer than the wool suiting, is also breathable and cooler. Go for khaki, a popular color for a cotton suit, but bring out the adventurer in you with a blue cotton suit.

SeerSuckers
Seersucker Suit:
Seersucker can be worn throughout the day. It is not to be seen only as a South style, where it originated, but something that is growing in popularity over the last few years. June 11 is celebrated as a ‘Seersucker Day’ to celebrate this US menswear fashion. The signature striped, lined surface and strategic crinkling makes the seersucker a unique cotton fabric for the men’s suit. You can wear the Seersucker for the summer without any compromise on style. A point to note here is that Seersucker is not as formal as you would imagine, and definitely wouldn’t be the thing for the formal business setting. If you aren’t still prepared for the Seersucker, then go for a seersucker bow tie instead.

Fresco Suit:
Fresco suit comes with layered strands of yarn, high-twisted wool featuring an open weave, making the fabric airy in nature for maximum airflow during summer. The crisp look and feel allows the suit to look lot structured and refined, thanks to the high-twisted wool. It shows better wicking and sweat-absorbing qualities compared to cotton or linen throwing an elegant look.

Chambray Suit:
Chambray, also called cambric, is a lightweight cotton fabric that is similar to denim, which is highly durable and sturdy, but that which naturally flows with movement and offers a soft touch.

WHAT SHOULD I WEAR FOR MY WEDDING – A TUXEDO OR SUIT? CAN YOU GUIDE ME?

I get this question every time from my clients. Let me explain without advocating things. The main physical difference between a suit and tuxedo is that tuxedos have satin details. Generally, tuxedos are built with satin facing on the lapels, pocket trim, buttons and satin strip that runs down the leg of the pants. Suits don’t come with satin, and typically feature plastic buttons or buttons characterized by the same fabric as that of the coat or self-buttons.

Tuxedos are traditionally accessorized with bow ties, a vest or cummerbund, whilst suits with a matching vest or long tie. I don’t say that suits cannot be worn with a bow tie or a tuxedo accessorized with a long tie. You may try if you wish. It’s simply the other way round which is more traditional and methodical. Of course, you can the break the rules based on the formality of the situation.

Now, coming to the question whether you should wear a tuxedo or suit for your wedding depends not necessarily on the physical differences but the message that a suit or tuxedo would want to convey.

It is your big day, and you are entitled to wear whatever you feel is right and however you want to. Not just you, your partner may probably feel the same way. But the truth is you can dress yourself a nice suit to a wedding and feel sharp and dressed up, and so do the attendees or guests. Besides, the same suit can turn into a work wear to feel organized and in control for the rest of the time. For your wedding, you’ll prefer to wear something that differentiates you from the crowd and your big day from the rest. That’s when a tuxedo really comes in more than handy.

Tuxedo
The point of dressing up for your marriage isn’t to look at your best. That’s not everything. It sets the very tone that should be maintained throughout the occasion. Your wedding day is quite special that deserves nothing less than a special dress code. A professional suit indicates a high level of competency, productivity and an organized approach, whereas a tuxedo suggests that it might well be one of your most important moments of your life and that you’ll do everything to make it look special. And when done correctly, it doesn’t get better than making a cameo with a nicely fitting tux on.

WHY MADE-TO-FIT SHIRTS & SUITS ARE POPULAR WITH GROOMS?

Millennial weddings are doing the rounds, with exciting young couples innovating on style and fashion statement. From their social media handles to variegated delicacies, it’s only fair to say that weddings have become completely disruptive in nature. Whilst suit and tuxedo rentals are still making headlines, tailored, made-to-order or bespoke suits and dresses are widely prevalent among today’s groom.

I am of the opinion that today’s retailers are increasingly less concerned about best fit. There are many who buy clothes off the rack that still need to get tailored, which means that the best fit is only tailored fit, and this augurs well with wedding outfit as well. Tailoring is a convenience factor for clients. My clients are completely relaxed when it comes to tailored shirt measurement right after their first appointment with us.

We make no compromise with the best fit. Men often complain about ill-fitting shirts. One they are too saggy in the waist or too snug around the collar. Other typical issues can run from differences in the lengths of their arms, tight collar when the neck feels constricted, to tight shirt size. Investing in a custom made-to-measure shirt can solve many shirt-size related issues including that of improper fit in both the chest and neck. The solution lies in finding the right shirt; off-the-rack shirts don’t serve the purpose at all. If you purchase a shirt that is based only on the collar size, watch out it would be huge and saggy everywhere else. You need to understand that one-size-fit-all approach don’t work—not any more.

Shirt
The term ‘fitted’ is comparatively better than anything labeled ‘trim fit’ because the latter has a different connotation and is only a marketing gimmick which is not going to benefit large-sized men. The comfort level is missing for sure! The shirt should have the right length. How are you going to wear the shirt—tucked or untucked? Are your shoulders broad or they do they slope out? These are some of the factors that decide whether your shirt is fitted and sized correctly. Grooms have different options starting from the fabric, collar to cuff style. You might be shelling out a few more dollars. But that’s absolutely fine as long when you merit longevity against the likes of short-term goals. Again, the benefits are shrouded in the experience of wearing made-to-measure outfits.

SPRING IS UPON US—WATCH WHAT YOU WEAR – PART 2

“Spring is nature’s way of saying, ‘Let’s Party!”
And how true. Spring adds a new sense of life and freshness to all that is. Let’s discuss from where we left in the previous blog, with more men’s Spring wear trends that are sure to stand out this year!

The art of layering
Multiple layering when the sun is out and shining may not sound horse sense, but it can still effuse practicality if done to nicety, as an option. Ditch the old heavy outwear, and pick lightweight jackets and overshirts instead. You can wear them over plain tees, regular summer-ready shirts or polos. And you can remove them anyways if you’re feeling the heat inside. Then just tie them about the waist, torso or shoulders to preserve the visual element minus the extra warmth.

All White
Going all white
Here’s another trick off the bag to pull off to stay chic and stylish this Spring: going ‘all white’. You, however, need to get it right to achieve that “kingly” state. I know going all white involves a few risks, but it’s worth every effort. Did I say that it can help ward off the heat and keep you cool? Try teaming a sharp, crisp white T-shirt with matchy-matchy chino shorts and a pair of tonal leather sneakers. Now, if that’s all overgoing, why not try a navy overshirt on top just to tone down the underlying effect a bit?

Bare Ankles
Bare Ankles was a cynosure of attraction and hogged the attention in the 2010s. But it’s staging a comeback in the 2020s giving you the perfect chance to get your ankles covered. Though I describe it as little outdated, there’s a lot you can do with it in terms of style and fashion this Spring.
If you must cover the lower portions of the legs with trousers on, I’d recommend restricting it to the summer months. I am not really in favor of your ankles peeping out from the cuffs of a pair of pants, particularly when it is bitingly cold and windy. Get yourself a nice pair of socks to slip into and complete the look.

Oversized Outerwear
Is tailoring going to get looser and baggier in 2021? I feel so, as we transition into a phase where oversized belted overcoats particularly will call the shots. There’s lot more I can describe on this trend which involves the ability to layer. Play it around creatively pairing oversized outwear with pieces underneath creating a lot of room for varying tones and textures. Hang on. I have more ins and outs for you. But that’s for another day for sure.

SPRING IS UPON US—WATCH WHAT YOU WEAR – PART 1

As we move further into the year, the season of Spring beckons us with a lot of hope, promise and excitement, and invites us to come out and see life afresh. Spring is a season when men’s dress becomes colorful, bold and less restricted by the conventional do’s and don’ts. Collar workers hit the office wearing hoodies and streetwear, whilst designers reimagine tailoring: change is permanent and everywhere. Spring infuses a new sense of life and color into style, and here is what I recommend men to wear this season:

Tailoring is here to stay:
Just when you thought tailoring is all over, it comes back right in. Wear a suit and you’ll be tagged as a C-suite executive or someone wanting to rock your first date or may be both. But there is always space for the unassuming two-piece, as tailoring takes the innovative route with oversized cuts (rather than form-fitted), daring and bold pastels and creams replacing navy and grey, and the tie ditched (for all the good reasons). What’s more encouraging is the shift of attention to print and embroidered floral pattern on bright colored shirts. The suit is making a comeback, but not the way we thought it would be.

Utility Wear
Utility:
Utility clothing pieces, surprisingly, has set the fashion scene on fire. Technical fabrics, work wear, fire-fighter jackets and commando-sole shoes, long known for their function than form, are fashion pieces this season. More and more people are seeing practicality in military-inspired clothes reconceptualized as designer gear. Now then, what do they hold for us?
You can’t but simply expect such outfits to be having a lot of pockets. Think about war core tactical gear, boiler suits and even cargo trousers that will add oomph to your mode of clothing. Now, you will not have any problems with these on if you’re a confident streetwear, and may be pull them off in style, but for the rest of us, I best feel this is a trend best embraced sneakily. You can pair wearable luggage and cargo trousers with civilian outfit like tees and sweatshirts. If you’re daring enough, then go for a utility vest such as an overshirt, again with regular tops and in pared back palette including beige, khaki and black—easy on the eyes. Thus, we see that both function as well as form seems to be the prerequisites for clothing trend this Spring. More to come in the subsequent part series of the blog.

BLEISURE WEAR IS HERE TO STAY!

For starters, the term ‘Bleisure’ is an intersection of two sub-sets: business and leisure. At this crossroad, more popular at the corporate and enterprise level, a new realm of fashion is calling out to you. Corporate business travelers fancy leisure as a form of motivation to stay focused on the goals and strategies to increasing client relationship and enhancing business prospects. And as such ‘Bleisure, as a concept, is managed by individual company policies that clearly state what attire to wear if you aren’t so sure which type of meeting you’re heading into: a business casual or more formal meeting.

There’s a lot of confusion around Blesiure wear. Only a fine line separates business and bleisure, and it is important to figure out what is acceptable wear for business and what you should probably leave at home. In another sense, it simply means how you’d replace one uniform (the suit) with another much less formal.
Take blazer, for instance—it is less formal than full suit when worn as a separate. However, it is to be noted that a double-breasted, gold-buttoned number is still not something to be tagged as smart-casual. Go for something that is more free-flowing and unstructured, that is, sans padding in the shoulder.

A trait of a good unstructured blazer is softness, made from pliable fabric stuff such as boiled or Merino wool—that’s essentially a cardigan, and actually some versions are knitted, or may be in jersey. They are undoubtedly more casual still, yet nonetheless comparatively smarter than a hoodie.

Bleisure wear is here to stay!
When it comes to separate tailored suits, you should be cautious with any material that’s either too shiny or thin. Pick materials that are beefier, increasingly textured and less-suit like that would throw a natural look to being worn with fabrics and casual outfits, like denim. In between the two extremes, viz. trousers and jeans, there lies the smart-casual chinos. If you choose a flat front and roll-ups, it throws a more casual look; pleats and creases, smarter. Tapering will check them from appearing too dad-like in guise. The emergence of athleisure wear has now lent a more casual, stylish and comfy look to trousers and chinos—featuring elasticised waistband and drawstring closure. These pair well with an untucked shirt, T-shirt or polo. Most companies invest in bleisure only for the business side of things, as their employees adopt a work dress code to dress their way up the social ladder. And that’s all good news even if you don’t care too much about visual elements.

CHANGE OF FORMAL TO SEMI-CASUAL WORK WEAR – WHAT HAS CHANGED?

We are well into 2021; the previous year devastated the opportunities of wearing a full suit to the workplace, owing to the outbreak of the pandemic that dominated the headlines in 2020. The good news is that formal wear is no longer the not so-fitting well stripes and checks of our pop’s time. Formal shirts can be linen, cotton blends, upmarket silks, with ties more of a collector’s piece. The ‘business casual look’ is on…

In most workplaces, it is super-formal from Monday through Thursday. In other words, the rule of the thumb is wearing full sleeves, trousers, button-down shirts with collars (ideally, no flashy colors and no prints), ties and leather shoes. Fridays can get bit lenient when you ditch the tie, try out with different prints, and perhaps go for khakis or chinos. This traditional mold is being fast replaced by more relaxed dress codes for employees to express themselves more freely, and create a work environment that is the best fit with the brand identity of the company. This said there are many HR Managers that still frown at the sight of executives wearing sleeveless attire, open-toed shoes and pants straying too far above the knee.

The workspace at all other times is a place to create and reflect your personal brand. Do you want to be tagged as the easy-to-go guy or the solemn guy or somewhere between the two extremities of the scale? You need to dress accordingly more often than not. There is also a growing school of thought that dressing casually effuses a sense of informality that can also easily relate to the mood of your team, thereby enhancing the quality of work delivered.

Change of Formal to Semi-Casual Work Wear – What has changed?
The work culture in the US is changing and so do careers, which in turn has led to dramatic shifts in work wear fashion, according to most menswear labels. The rise of alternative careers, in fact, has blurred the thin line between work wear and casual wear and, this, in turn, has transformed personal style at large. Even among the different sectors that allow smart casual wear through the week days, there are cardinal rules by default on work wear for events and client meetings. Subtle styling changes or addition of accessories can alter a formal outfit to look like a causal one. Layering is the most effective way to transform your look instantly. Shoes, scarves and other forms of accessories can produce a semi-formal look and, if that isn’t enough, convert a business casual wear to evening casual.

2021 IS UPON US, WHAT ARE THE WEDDING SUIT TRENDS FOR MEN?

The new year has popped out with a lot of promises and hope to behold. Men’s fashion has evolved a lot since 2020, a year that will be remembered for all the wrong reasons. Men’s suit trends too have been changing year on year, and I promise to give you the best of men’s suiting trends in this blog as I consciously do for all my clients, day in and out. From formal to more laid back, I’ll walk you through the range of choices. I’m sure you’ll be wanting to be dressed to the nines, and savor every minute of it. From sleek black dinner suits that gave many a Hollywood stars a run for their money to the more intricate, there’re no strings attached!

Dinner suit for weddings:
Dinner suits for weddings don’t always have to be black or midnight blue, the de facto suit colors of the wedding season. If it’s a monochromatic wedding (Black and white), I always recommend going for a black dinner suit. But if it’s a late afternoon or early evening wedding, then I suggest a midnight blue suit for an exceptional look. Alternatively, I also recommend emerald green or deep burgundy colored suits or you can ditch your dinner jacket for a smoking jacket.

Three Piece Wedding
Three-piece Wedding suit:
I wonder if there’s anything more graceful than a three-piece wedding suit. The biggest advantage is that a three-piece suit is more formal in nature, therefore if you get too hot, and want to appear chic and stylish when spending the night away, you, being the groom, can still hold sway over the onlookers, with the waistcoat on. And there is the classic prince of Wales check, which is another favorite as a wedding suit pattern and effuses a lot of elegance and suaveness, whatever be the style and theme of the wedding. If you are looking for a tailored wedding suit, but at crossroads to how you can create your dream wedding suit, simply talk to me for a one-on-one consultation. If you’re contemplating when is a good time to order a bespoke wedding suit, then you should start as early as possible so that there is no hustling around in the last minute. You need to plan things early—and select the fabric, color (based on the time of the event) and pattern—before deciding upon a wedding suit so that you get only the best fit on your big day.

THREE MEN’S OUTFIT STYLE FOR THE START OF A NEW YEAR

The new year is on, and even as we are approaching the end of January of this year already, let’s play out the cards in the form of three outfit styles. Forget the new year eve celebration, there is more to what these three unique style can do in terms of real style and substance. In terms of dress code—casual or formal, what have you planned to wear? No worries; this blog will have you literally covered with a few recommendations on how to welcome the fresh year and impress onlookers with a greater sense of panache and elegance.

Let the new year open up with different patterns, and an overcheck fabric comes as a default choice. You can mix and match your dress shirt and trouser’s opaque hues. If you feel a red suit is more overstated, why not try pairing a two-button burgundy suit instead with a shirt in saturated tones and accessories that are contrasting. Undoubtedly, the stylish and chicest way to welcome the new year!

If you think pyjamas represent only informal boundaries, think again. Here is a casual outfit for you to enjoy when spending time at the pool or evening fire lounge area with your best pals and a bottle of Brule wine: a soft flannel shirt teamed up with a casual blazer or cozy pull jacket, the most preferred item for the more relaxed and laid back folk. And if you don’t want to come out of your comfort zone, you can go for a soft and classic cable-knit sweater. You can pick between a pair of chinos, jeans or soft velvet trousers to wear underneath.

The period that marks the passage of time from 2020 to 2021 can also be an occasion for embracing style and elegance, and the most formal event of the year to celebrate masculinity with a lot of grace and elegance. If you’re looking to wear a black-tie dress code, you can either stick to the conventions and wear a black tuxedo, an ageless classic, or go bolder with a blue tux. Whatever be the case, always wear a white shirt, and pair with cufflink and a bow tie, in addition to a satin sash. If, instead, the dress code demands a less formal arrangement, the most recommended option is to put on a white shirt, blue suit and accessorise with a satin tie. For a more audacious attempt, go for a satin bow tie, following the variegated celebrations of the occasion.

LAYERING YOUR OUTFIT FOR THE WINTER

One of the most effective outwears for the winter is a heavier wool sport coat. When it comes to sport coats, I view them as jackets instead of “half a suit”. This makes them an easy-to-go outfit with the rest. They will definitely give you a sharper look even if the outfit comes with a lot of casual elements such as white leather sneakers or denim.

If you’re looking for an extra bit of warmth, go for sports coat in tweed or winter-weight wool. For an even smarter and sharper casual look, use a down vest or V-neck sweater for layering your outfit. Under extremely cold climatic conditions, you may have to layer with multiple outwear that can provide you a decent coverage and insulation. If you stay in a more temperate area, it will suffice if you just wear a quilted jacket or pea coat (plus layers in addition). On transitional days, or just when you’re looking for added warmth over a lightweight sweater, a denim jacket offers a superb classic look. Try to keep it casual or even wear a tie with your denim, if you style your outfit the right way.

Athleisure is not just meant for the summers, but can be conceptualized for a casual and comfy appeal even during the winters. Try out any of the sweaters and joggers from your closet for a sharper and cooler look. If you think beyond the suit, a leather jacket is a worthwhile investment in your wardrobe. Similar to a suit, there is something exciting about wearing a properly fitted leather jacket. Or in other words, you can best describe yourself as a badass.

Coming to the fabric selection of winter outfits, I recommend wool flannel as it is a warm and comfy suiting fabric. It is to be noted that 100 per cent wool cloth has different weights, with 12 oz the minimum you’d want for any winter suit. If it gets too light, you are in all “in-season” fabric weight category. That can also do, but strictly depending on how cold and chilly it gets where you live, you may well have to layer up with different pieces. If you are buying ready-made suits or even made-to-measure or bespoke, you most likely needn’t have to be too picky about choosing a specific weight as they’re classified by season. Therefore, simply look for spring/summer or fall/winter suiting fabrics, and you’re good to go. Once you start thinking bespoke or going custom, that’s when you go for specific fabric and associated weights.

SMART MEN’S SHIRTS & PANTS INCLUDING MID-LAYERS FOR THE WINTER

Finally, the winters have arrived, and you need to know about dressing to nicety and sporting a sharp and smart style even in the bitingly chilly cold. Let’s start off with colors—darker and richer tones including navy, camel, charcoal, eggplant purple, burgundy, forest green are the default choice. When it comes to fabrics, a heavier weight and more texture material is preferable. As for the fitting, clothes should start out slim and gradually turn more capacious.

Winter fashion for men play out in the form of a wide range of wools, heavier cottons, thicker knits, woven shirts, etc. Apparently, all layers generally are thicker to keep one warm and comfy and ward off the cold.

When it comes to casual clothing, I recommend a stylish look (as imparted by below) for a casual and dressier use:
# Denim
# Chinos
#Twill & flannel shirts
# Substantial wool, cashmere &cotton
# Heavy canvas & wool outerwear

Generally, the fitting is no way different from every other season. However, I suggest slim and fitted style, but not overly tight. There should be enough for you to move around. There’s a catch however here: in winter, we tend to layer our outfit—underwear, sweater, button-up shirt, coat and think thermal underwear—therefore, the fit and thickness of every layer must be pretty much strategic. On top of it, outermost layer usually lends a relaxed fit, so that you can have rooms for the layers underneath. Who would want to wear a peacoat so slim such that you won’t be able to put on anything more than a button-up shirt underneath?

Winter Shirts:
When it comes to Chambray, it is neither a fall-nor a winter-specific shirt, to be precise. Denim, on the other hand, can be easily worn throughout the year. Therefore, don’t trade your favorite Chambray for any sweatshirt or sweater; continue to wear through the winter months. This said your regular Oxford cloth is quite substantial, and comes as an excellent option for winter. I also recommend flannel and twill shirts as appropriate for men’s winter fashion. Both formal and casual options are available in both fabrics.

Winter Pants:
Go with denim if you want to wear it casually pairing it with sneakers and a T-shirt, and more formally teamed up with a sport coat, dress shirt and loafers throughout the winter season.

Winter Mid-layers:
During the winters, go for a mid-layer made of light coat or jack, alternating one heavy coat. Two warm layers enable better regulation of temperature than just wearing a shirt and a thick, heavy coat. If it gets too cold and chilly outside, you’re left with only one option, and that is to wear a coat with no mid-layer. Aesthetically, you can create a more interesting look using multiple layers. This means sweaters and vests are good at not only regulating body temperate better, but add an extra layer of oomph to your winter outfit.

FALL IS ALMOST DONE, BUT THE COLORS LIVE ON

Men’s fashion gets no better than appropriately pairing with the unexpected to create an eye-popping look. We are approaching the fag end of fall, but the season colors live on and continue to inspire us. No wonder autumn is all about vibrant and exuberant palette of colors. A mix of traditionalism and the right color suits will put you in good stead this season.
Light Gray Suit:
A default choice for fall is a light gray suit, a perfect twist to the classic gray, as it can be adapted for more formal occasions or dressed down for a casual set-up. Gray can complement well with a plethora of colors—whether bold or subtle. I recommend wearing a light gray suit with plaid or pinstripes that’d give you an edge over others.
Navy suit
Navy Blue Suit:
A classic suit color, navy, is perfect for fall outfit. You can spice up the suit by wearing jewel tones. You can even heighten the visual look by including some texture to the suit fabric. A navy blue suit can stand out whilst still lending a professional look. If you’re looking for a more vintage-inspired feel, then this is for you.
 
Royal Blue Suit:
If you’ve a special occasion to attend or preside a key meeting, where you’re required to make a strong statement, a royal blue suit is all you need. Don’t make it too loud: wear a plain sheet underneath; maintain an accent color for your tie such as a subdued golden yellow. The royal blue suit color is guaranteed to enhance your style and confidence, and turn a few eyeballs towards you.
Charcoal Gray Suit:
A charcoal gray suit is an effective mark of sophistication and intrigue. Trust me, you’d look like a born to be professional that demand attention. The fall season is the most perfect for charcoal gray suit as you can accessorize it with just about anything and still look formal.
Black Suit:
There’s an air of mystery around a black suit and the fall season offers you the leeway to be both mysterious and elegant. Any man’s wardrobe is inherently incomplete without a sharp-looking black suit. Accessorize the suit with a black tie for a cover or luxurious look.
We would love to dress you up with the best fall suit that fits your style and theme. We specialize in custom, bespoke professional menswear, and offer nothing short of the best experience with an emphasis on the finest of details. Make your town talk of your new-found fashion sense this fall.